Unisex V-Neck Sweater Vests

Gentle Giant  and stout dwarf vnecks

I created this pattern to be worked by gauge & actual measurements not for any one particular size. I have made this twice. Once as a semi sew & once as a completely no sew. The smaller of the two that I made one for myself fits 2XL & the one for my gentle giant of a husband fits 3XL Tall.

Material: Redheart #4 weight Super Saver skeins

Fiber Content:

No-Dye-Lot Solids and Prints & Multis: 100% acrylic

Flecks: 96% Acrylic, 4% Other Fibers

Skein Weight:

No-Dye-Lot Solids: 7 oz (198g), Prints & Multis: 5 oz (141g), Flecks: 5 oz (141g)


No-Dye-Lot Solids: Approx.364 yds (333 m), Prints & Multis: Approx. 244 yds (233m), Flecks: Approx. 260 yds (238m)

Crochet Hook:

I-9 (5.5mm)

Knitting Needles:

US 8 (5mm)

Crochet Gauge:

12sc x 15r = 4in(10cm) on size I9(5.5) hook

Knitting Gauge:

17st x 23r = 4in(10cm) on size US 8(5mm) needles

Care Instructions:

Machine wash warm; tumble dry; do not bleach; do not iron; dry cleanable

I used approx. 16 oz of Coffee (MC) & 14 oz. Buff (CC) for each of the Vests

Needle sizes: 10 & 10 ½ circular needles length appropriate for your girth that you are trying to fit. I used 29” one of each for the no sew & for the semi sew version I used a mixed set of Needles as that is the set I inherited it happened to be 1- 10 & 1- 10 ½ sized pair 36” long. I use what I have on hand as I’m on a very tight income.

Since I was still a semi new comer to the knitting world, I’ve only been knitting about 4 years now; I opted to use the Double Cast on method. That way you have a more unified stitch for the beginner in you. The Pattern is written for the 2XL on the Circular Needles 1st with the Straight Needles pattern written in parentheses & Bold. With a few exceptions the Cast on Round or Row it is set up for both sizes as will The Armhole Round (row), which also converts to a semi circular round so that we may work our piece into two pieces only to join again at the shoulder seam.

Stitch Pattern: Mock Hound’s-tooth I think that is what it was called.

With MC CO 172 – 2XL (180- 3 XL) for the no sew I split them between the 2 circular needles, so I had 86- 2XL(90 – 3XL) so that I would be able to work a front & a back when it came time to switch at the armholes & beyond section of the pattern & kept track of which one was my 10” & which one was my 10 ½” that way my front could be worked on the 10 ½” one when it was time to work in parts & 86- 2XL (90 – 3XL tall) for the semi sew.

Now work in ribbing on the circular needles, I placed a marker at the beginning or end spot, & I placed another one at the midway spot so that I could work it in one unified piece (k 2, p2) around for 2” – 2 ½” either size depending if you have a short or Long torso respectively. Now for those that opted to use the semi sew you will (k2, p2,) (For the return trip it will be worked ((K, P, K2, P2, to within the last stitches making sure to end with a K) across thus creating a smoother side seam) for your Front piece & for the Back piece making sure that your ends will sew together properly so that you will have an even, & seamless seam of stitches. Since I was creating it to fit our sizes with a newly learned stitch pattern I think that is why I opted to work it as a no sew the 2nd time.

Once you have your Ribbing worked & ready to move to the next Feature working either your Front or Back Panel or your entire sweater vest. It will be done with a Mock Hound’s-tooth stitch, at least if my memory serves me correctly, I made these over 2 yrs ago & with my medical condition I don’t always remember what things are called But I do remember how I did them, since I had a tendency when I was first realizing that my memory was failing to write my patterns as I went & all even rows or wrong side rows will be worked (k, Purl across to within the last stitch, ending with a final K) turn & begin again. The instructions are the same for either size the difference is the # of stitches that you must work. I prefer the NO Sew that way my pieces of Front & back actually matched the proper Stitching & I didn’t have to worry about keeping track of MC or CC to start my sides with since it was one continuous piece.

For those of us going the NO Sew path which I prefer we will work in knit stitch only, for those that are working with the straight needles follow the directions typed in bold.

Ø Round (Row) 1: Sl 1, K2, Sl 1, K2, around in MC or across if on the Straight needles this is to change from our ribbing to our new pattern stitch.

Ø Round (Row) 2: K around in MC & (K, Purl across to within the last stitch then K) turn.

Ø Round (Row) 3: Join CC, K2, Sl 1 MC, K2 CC, Sl 1MC, repeat around or across

Ø Round (Row) 4: K around using only your CC, or (k, Purl across to within the last stitch than K) turn.

Ø Round (Row) 5: Sl 1 CC, K2 MC, Sl 1 CC, k2MC, around or across depending

Ø Round (Row) 6: K around using only the MC, or (k, Purl across to within the last stitch than K) turn.

Ø Round (Row) 7: K2 CC, Sl 1 MC, K2 CC, Sl 1MC, repeat around or across depending

Ø Round (Row) 8: K around using only your CC, or (k, Purl across to within the last stitch than K) turn.

Ø We now continue in this established pattern of stitches Until Round(Row) 69, Armhole openings staying in pattern

Ø Round (row) 70: For those of us that have been working on the 2 circular Needles it is now time to decide which is your front & which is the back, Remember that whichever section has the 10” circular needle is the back & the 10 ½” circular will be your front that way it will provide the proper easements that are required for your chest & girth at the belly sections. We may now remove our 1st marker & Bind off 12 stitches staying in pattern, k across still in pattern the next 74- 2XL (78- 3XL), Now you should be able to work your remaining stitches from your 2nd marker as follows Bind off 12 Stitches thus creating the 2nd armhole opening, staying in established pattern k across your remaining 74-2XL (78-3XL) & yes you no longer at this time need your marker left.

Ø Work your Back panel 74- 2XL (78- 3XL) stitches evenly alternating between Knit rows for the right side of work & purl rows for wrong side of work & remember that we work 2 rows in MC & than 2 Rows in our CC for approx. 10”(25.4 cm) armhole opening. Do NOT Bind off we will use a 3 needle bind off method for joining our shoulder seams.

Ø Work your Front panel even on the arm hole opening side, but at the center you will be decreasing & staying in pattern to best of your ability one side then the other, You will work your left panel from armhole to center & the right panel from center to armhole as follows: Remember to stay in pattern so k, until within the last 2 stitches of our left panel then; k2together for your decrease at the center, turn, K, p35- 2 xl (p 38- 3 xl), k) stitches still staying in pattern we will purl evenly across to armhole. Repeat in this manner staying within the color scheme & pattern already established from waist to armhole opening, until you have 6”(15.2 cm) width for shoulder to neck opening, then work across these stitches evenly until your piece from beginning of armhole opening to top of shoulder at neckline measures approx. 10”(25.4 cm) in length. Do NOT bind off but retain on needle when possible for the 3 needle bind off & shoulder seaming. Repeat the established pattern for your right side only we begin at the center with our (k2tog, k across the stitches retaining the pattern established to the armhole opening & then we purl back to the center evenly upon the remaining stitches, Repeat in this manner staying within the color scheme & pattern already established from waist to armhole opening, until you have 6”(15.2 cm) width for shoulder to neck opening, then work across these stitches evenly until your piece from beginning of armhole opening to top of shoulder at neckline measures approx. 10”(25.4 cm) in length. Do NOT bind off but retain on needle when possible for the 3 needle bind off & shoulder seaming.

Ø Once we’ve reached our desired armhole opening length we will need to turn our wrong side out & hold our front panel at the armhole opening together to our back panel & use a 3 needle bind off to join across the 6” width of shoulder, then we will also bind off the neckline of unused stitches until we reach our other shoulder at the neckline to the armhole opening while binding together. Cut Yarn leaving enough to sew unfortunately every one no matter if you chose to do the Little/ No sew pattern or the All sew pattern method. Have to sew their decorative edging onto the neckline & armholes.

Ø Back Panel: Bind off 6, staying in pattern, (k, p72 (76), across k, then bind off your last 6 stitches, work evenly until the armhole opening is approx. 10“(25.4 cm) in length, Do not bind off until working the front to the back panels leave on needle when possible & if not slip to stitch holder until ready for completing the vest, cut yarn leaving enough to use for a 3 Needle Bind off method to form a nearly invisible seam.

Ø Front Panel: Bind off 6, staying in pattern, (k, p35- 2 xl (p 38- 3 xl), k) slip these 37- 2 xl (40 – 3xl) stitches to a stitch holder to be worked after you have completed your other front side, (k, p 35(38), k) then bind off your last 6, cut yarn leaving enough to use to sew together later. See Direction above for those that have been working in the rounds. For Pattern instructions

For those that have opted to create the full sew pattern you will need to sew along the side seam from waistline to armhole opening; Since you’ve already used your 3 needle bind off method to join your shoulders to your back panel.

Ø Decorative trim for the neckline & armhole opening are worked in your MC & in a ribbing of K2, P2, If you prefer as little sewing as possible you may use your circular needle #10 to pick up evenly spaced stitches around the entire armhole opening & carefully, create your trim of approx. 1 ½” in width. For those that prefer to work the ribbing & then sew it to your work you may do so as well. You will need 1- 34”- 36” (86.4 – 91.4 cm) for the Neckline; & 2- 26”-28” (66 – 71.1 cm) edgings 1 for each armhole opening. I opted to the sew method for my 1st vest & opted the Pick & go method for my 2nd vest. I started the neckline at the center & picked up from front right up to shoulder across the neck opening to left shoulder, down the left neck opening, I used a k2tog at the center front to keep the work smooth. Now for the armholes I started at the lower center & picked up along the bottom edge, increase 2 at the side corners to make it a more smooth transaction to become a more circular opening than the square that I created, up the armhole to the shoulder seam, & back down the other side to the center of the armhole opening at the base.

Now if you’ve opted to create your trim separately as I did for the smaller sweater vest, you will need to create a length of trim 1- 34”- 36” (86.4 – 91.4 cm) for neckline & 2- 26” – 28” (66 – 71.1 cm) for the armhole openings We will begin in the same fashion as the no sew method, we attach the neckline at the bottom center on the right side of work & sew into place the edge to the left front panel at the v junction, across & up the right side panel across the length of the trim, up to the neckline of the back panel, around & down the left front panel ending with the left edge overlapping slightly the right front edging & fasten the side of the edge to the right front.

Now on the armhole openings trim I opted to join the two ends together before I sewed it to the vest, & I started joining the trim at the bottom center & work the piece evenly around the entire armhole.


Ski Patrol Hat

ski cap  ski cap2

Ski Patrol hat/mask

Variety of Sizes & gauges use either #3 or #4 category yarns Depending on size use either #5 or  #6 (4) double pointed sets of  size or #6 or #8 (4) double pointed sets of size. Yes these are worked in rounds. I used the double cast on method for casting on stitches so that the beginner may even attempt this with an evenly spaced edge.

Size Preemie Newborn Toddler Child Small Adult Medium Adult Large Adult
# of stitches 56 64 72 80 88 96 104
# of Inches before the opening 2 ½ 2 ½ 3 3 4 5 6
# of inches after the opening 2 ½ 2 ½ 3 3 4 5 6
Decrease # of stitches for crown 28 32 37 40 44 48 52

Round 1: Double CO # of stitches for size desired to create, see chart above.

Round 2: K2, P2, around the # of stitches, work in this pattern according to the size desired before we BO stitches for the face opening.

Next Round: k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, BO next 16(18, 20, 22, 24) Preemie & Newborn as well as the Toddler & child share same # of stitches to be bound off.

Next Round: staying in pattern, you will re-add, the appropriate # of stitches that you BO on previous round.

Next round to final before we decrease down to crown work in pattern as before.

Final Round: K2tog, p2tog, k2tog, p2tog, repeat in this pattern to narrow down to ½ the # of stitches, cut yarn leaving enough to cinch the crown & sew or knot together.

Optional Extras: Add a Pom-pom, bow, or other fancy tassel to spruce it up for girls & babies.