Mauve 2 pc. Skirt Set

Mauve 2pc

This pattern was written for a customize fit of Girl 12Yrs, but may be customized to fit Baby/Toddler/girl/Teen/Tween or Woman including those of us that are of the more queenly shapes.

Unfortunately I only have knowledge of how much yarn is required to repeat the exact size I made. This is customizable Skirt waist fits up to 36”(91.4 cm) waistline. The length is 20”(50.8cm) but your 12 yr old maybe shorter or taller than mine. I made it to fit waist to the knee. So you may want to adjust according to desired length by subtracting rows or adding rows. However, there are 2 decreases of 40 stitches you maybe able to adjust that within your requirements by evenly dividing the stitches between your work, from Fancy Fringe to Waistline. And the vest measurements are to fit a 36” (91.4 cm) bust line, not all 12 yr olds are that broad. So if you need to make modifications you may. Our family has a variety of mismatched lengths to age, so I’ve always customized all of my patterns to fit all members. I use the Gauge to meet my needs. I may not really be making the exact size that you expect to create; I go by the measurements of my intended recipient. So if you can’t meet my gauge at least use your own gauge & meet your measurements for your items.

Special Notes: Join yarn with an extended tail avoiding the nasty knots & having to keep track of a right side & wrong side of material made. As my eyesight is failing, & most of our family members have super sensitive skin I avoid knotting altogether. I generally leave about ½ “to an 1” of the previous skein, or when joining yarn to a new section of stitches, & work over the end(s) to secure the stitches & yarn in place. Since I didn’t write my pattern as I went I’m attempting to write it without creating a 2nd one of this same size. And my memory isn’t quite what it use to be so if the counts of the rows don’t seem to match up please let me know & I will attempt to fix the counts. But to the best of my knowledge & counting ability with my vision I’m writing exactly how I worked it. However, at any point if the counting is off please notify me & I’ll see how to help you to achieve your masterpiece.

Material:

Yarn: #3 weight – 50 gr. / 1.76 oz. skeins x 4

Crochet hook: “g”,”6” if your in the USA or “4 ¼ mm” if your in the UK

Stitch markers: 4 detachable rings or marker threads of your choice whichever way you prefer.

Gauge: 5 Foundational HDC = 1” (approx. 2.5 cm)

2 ½ rounds of Shell pattern = 1” (approx. 2.5cm)

Stack of 5 sc = 1” (approx. 2.5 cm)

Stitch Abbreviations & explanations:

Chain (Ch)clip_image002 Single crochet (Sc)clip_image004 Double Crochet (Dc)clip_image006 Slip Stitch (sl st)clip_image008

Skip stitch (SK) Half Double Crochet (HDC)clip_image010 Treble Crochet (T)clip_image012 yarn over (YO)

Single crochet 2 together (sc2Tog)clip_image014 Front Loop Only(FLO) clip_image016

Beginning Double crochet (Beg DC): either use a ch 3 or sc+ch 1 to create it; I prefer the sc+ch1

Beginning Treble crochet (Beg T): either use a ch 4 or sc+ch 2 to create.

Beginning Shell (Beg Shell): (Beg Dc, ch1, Dc, ch 1, Dc) Beg ½ shell (Beg DC, ch 1, DC)

Shell: (DC, ch 1, Dc, ch 1, DC) ½ shell (DC, ch 1, Dc)

Picot: (sc, ch 5, sc) all in the same stitch Mini Picot (MPicot) (sc, ch3, sc) all in the same stitch

Divot: the space between 2 shells aka the sc spaces

Foundation Crocheting: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oZrabIcA8C8 , http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YGPkRHF0rUw&feature=related ; I prefer to use the Foundation stitches as I don’t have the tendency to accidentally twist them when I form rounds. I’ve included links as I’m not sure I can explain how to create them as the videos may be able to instruct.

Skirt will be worked Fancy Fringe on the Base Round 1st, then we will flip the Fancy Fringe & work on the other side of the Base Round upward to our waistline.

Base Round:

Ch 3, ( YO, insert hook into 3rd ch from hook(pinch the ch lightly but firm enough to hold), pull up another loop onto you hook, now switch to pinching that loop as you did the other, draw through another loop, now draw through another loop of yarn through 2 loops on hook, draw through another loop through the last 2 loops on hook) 2nd foundation HDC created, now repeat for another 217 times, then we will YO, insert the hook into the last base & the very 1st base stitch, draw a loop through, draw another loop through 2 of the loops on the hook, draw another loop through the remaining loops on hook, sl st to top of beginning HDC, making sure not to twist the newly created Foundation Band. So much easier to avoid than if we had created a chain of this length, and then had to work our HDC to form the base. Our Base Round = 220 Foundational HDC.

Fancy Fringe:

Ø Round 1: sc in joining stitch,*ch 5, sk 3, sc in next stitch, * repeat this pattern around the length of base, ending with a ch 2 & DC in the beginning sc, thus creating a new starting point.

Ø Round 2: *Picot, ch 3, 5 DC in center sc of next loop, ch 3, * repeat this established pattern around the base, ending with SL st into the beginning sc of the 1st Picot & in to the center stitch of the ch 5 of the Picot, new starting position created.

Ø Round 3: *Sc in this new starting point, ch 4, ( DC, ch 1) in top of the next 4 DC of previous round, ending with a DC in the 5th DC, ch 4, *now repeat this established pattern around the base round, ending with a T into the beginning sc of this round, creating another new starting point.

Ø Round 4: Beg T, *(T +ch 2) in top of each of the next 4 DC of previous round, T in the last DC, * repeat this established pattern around, always removing the ch 2 between the 1st & last T of each section, ending with a HDC into the Beg T. Thus creating yet another starting point.

Ø Round 5: sc in newly formed starting point, *ch 5, sc in next ch 2 space, * repeat this established pattern around ending with a SL st into the beginning sc.

Ø Round 6: sc in each stitch around ending with SL st in the beg sc & the next 2 sc, creating a new beginning point.

Ø Round 7: Repeat round 2, ending with a SL st into the beginning sc, Fasten off. Weave end to hide.

Flip to work the other side of the Base Foundation Round

Skirt Body:

Ø Round 1: Join yarn as described in the special notes above in any of the many base stitches available, work a sc in this stitch that you chose, now remember you will need to hold the tail so that it may be hidden as you work this round, *sk 2, (shell), sk 2, sc, * now repeat this pattern around this base round, ending with a sl st into the beginning sc.

Ø Round 2: (Beg Shell), sc top of previous rounds shell,(shell) in divot, * sc, (shell), * repeat this newly established pattern around, ending with a sl st into the Beg DC of the Beg Shell, & sl st to the center DC of the shell, new starting point established.

Ø Round 3: Sc in starting point, (Shell), *sc on top of next shell, (shell), *repeat this pattern around ending with a SL st in beginning sc.

Ø Round 4 & all even rounds to round 8: Repeat round 2

Ø Round 5 & all odd rounds to round 9: Repeat round 3

Ø Round 10: Work sc in the starting point & over the next 8 spaces, Sc2tog, *sc in the next 9 spaces, Sc2tog, * repeat in this manner around, we would have decreased a total of 20 stitches, ending with a SL st into the beg sc, & the total count of spaces should be 200sc.

Ø Round 11: sc in joining stitch, *sk 1, (shell) sk 1, sc, *repeat this around ending with a sl st into the beginning sc

Ø Round 12: (Beg Shell), Sc on top of shell, *(shell) in divot, sc,* repeat this around ending with a sl st into the Beg DC of the Beg shell, & in to the center DC of the shell, new starting point

Ø Round 13: Sc in starting point, *(shell) in divot, sc top of next shell of previous round, * repeat around ending with a SL st in Beginning sc.

Ø Round 14 & every even round to round 18: Repeat Round 12

Ø Round 15 & every odd round to round 19: Repeat Round 13

Ø Round 20: Sc in starting point & in the next 7 spaces, sc2tog, * sc in next 8 spaces, sc2tog, * repeat around ending with a SL st into the beg sc, & now we should have 180sc.

Ø Round 21: Sc in joining stitch, * SK 1, (Shell), SK 1, sc, * repeat this around with a SL st into the beginning sc.

Ø Round 22: (Beg Shell), sc on top of shell, *(shell) in divot, sc,* repeat around ending with a sl st into the Beg DC of the Beg Shell & in to the center DC of this shell, new starting point

Ø Round 23: Sc in starting point, *(shell) in divot, sc in top of next shell of previous round, * repeat around ending with a SL st in beginning sc.

Ø Round 24 & every even round to round 36: Work same as Round 22

Ø Round 25 & every odd round to round 35: Work same as Round 23

Belt Loop Round

Ø Round 37(1): Sc in starting point, *ch 5, sc top of next shell, * repeat around ending with a ch 2 & DC in beginning sc of this round, thus creating a new starting point & the necessary 29 belt loops for the adjustable waistline

Top Fringe of the Waistline

Ø Round 38(1): Sc evenly around the previous belt loop round, you should have 180SC total, ending with a SL st to the 1st sc of this round.

Ø Round 39(2): Sc in joining st, *sk1, (shell), sk 1, Sc,* repeat around ending with sl st in be sc

Ø Round 40(3): Beg Shell, *sc, (shell), sc,* repeat around ending with a sl st to the BegDC of the Beg Shell, Fasten off & weave end to hide. Now if you’ve been adding the skeins as needed using my trick you won’t be able to tell if the skirt is inside out or right side in at this point without the belt attached that is.

Decorative belt with Curly Q Tassels

Ø Starting with the making of the 1st curly Q, ch 42, insert your hook in the 3rd ch from hook, draw up loop, yo, draw through all loops on hook (sc), sc in same ch again, now work 2 sc in each ch upward until you’ve reached you beginning ch; now the real fun starts, *ch 1, turn, sc, as I mentioned in the gauge above it takes approx. 5 stacked sc to =1” so keeping on stacking those sc in this fashion until you reached your limit your piece should measure about 44”( 111.8 cm) from Curly Q tassel to where you need to start chaining again for your other decorative Curly Q tassel. Well at least that is how long I made mine as I didn’t really keep track of mine, before I decided that I needed to make the other tassel. Just like you made your 1st tassel ch 42, insert your hook in the 3rd ch from the hook, draw up a loop, yo, draw through all loops on hook (sc) place another sc in same ch, now work your 2 sc in each ch back up to the stack of sc, we will end with a sl st into the last of our stacked sc. Fasten off & weave end in to hide. Our belt should measure Curly Q tassel tip to Curly Q tassel tip 50” (127 cm)

Ø Now that you have your belt & skirt done, you may weave the belt in & out of your loops starting at the front center loop when the skirt is folded in half; & you will end up weaving the end back through this same loop to have the proper spot to tie the belt.

Vest

The vest is made in a similar fashion as the skirt with the exception that it is still worked in rows not rounds.

Foundation Base

Ø Create a Foundational Base Row of 180 Foundational HDC. As we did with the skirt we will work both sides of this foundation row. Approx. 36” or (91.4 cm)

Fancy Fringe: As with most things made with rows we have to take a turn on the end of each one so things are just a tad different here. When we’ve reached our 180Foundational HDC, we will ch 1, & Turn.

Ø Row 1: sc in same spot as your turning ch, *ch 5, SK 3, sc, * repeat across until you’ve your 1st foundational HDC; work a final sc into it. If you’ve proper skipped & sc you will end up at that spot. SL st to the ch 5 space.

Ø Row 2: Work a Picot, *ch 3, 5 DC in next ch 5 space, ch 3, Picot, * repeat across to the other end finishing with a Picot in the last ch 5 space. Sl st to center of the picot, new starting position, turn

Ø Row 3: Beg T, *(DC, ch 1)in the next 4 DC, DC in the 5th DC of previous row, ch 4, sc in top of next picot, * repeat this across to the other end, ending with T in top of the last Picot of the previous row, new starting position created, turn

Ø Row 4: Beg T, (ch 2, T in next DC), repeat 3 times, ch2, T in the last DC,* (T in the next DC of the next series of DC , ch2) repeat 4 times, T in last DC, * repeat this across to your last DC, Ch 1 turn

Ø Row 5: Sc in turning st, Ch 5, sc in next ch 2 space, *ch 5, Sc in next ch 2 space, * repeat across ending with a sc in the final 2ch space. Ch1 Turn

Ø Row 6: Sc in each sc & ch sp across, turn, SL st to the center st, new starting point created.

Ø Row 7: MPicot, *ch 3, 5 DC in center sc of next loop, ch 3, MPicot, *repeat this across ending with an MPicot in the last center sc of the last loop. Fasten off & hide the end with a weave.

Get Ready, Get Set, 1, 2, 3, Flip

We are now ready to begin the main body of the Vest.

Main Body

Gentle Reminder about the joining; please refer to the special notes, I don’t join in the conventional way, I’m not into knots, I use an extended tail method.

Ø Row 1: Sc in the top of the 1st HDC with the extended tail as we did for the skirt, *SK 1, (shell), SK 1, sc in the next st, *repeat across ending with a sc in the last stitch on the foundation base, turn

Ø Row 2: Beg ½ shell, sc in to of next shell from previous row,* (shell) in the divot, sc, * repeat across until you’ve reached the other side & you will need to finish with a ½ shell in the last sc of the previous round, ch 1, turn

Ø Row 3: Sc in the turning stitch, *(shell) in the next divot, sc on top of the shell created in the previous row, * repeat across ending with a sc in top of the beg DC of the Beg ½ Shell of the previous row, this will ensure a straight & even edge for the front panels on each side, turn

Ø Row 4 & all even rows to Row 20: will be worked like Row 2 until piece reaches your desired length to armhole opening, Mine is 8” (20.3 cm)once again, my niece has an extra long torso

Ø Row 5 & all odd rows to Row 19: will be worked like Row 3 until your piece reaches your desired length to the armhole.

At this point we will fold our piece as if to wear a vest having two front panels & a center back panel. Front Panel 1= 9”(22.9 cm) in width, Back Panel = 18”(45.7 cm); Front Panel 2 = 9”(22.9 cm). We will now be placing Markers to determine where the armhole should be placed. Measure 8” from either end, Place Marker (PM), measure 2”, PM, repeat for the other end. We have now placed our markers for the armhole openings.

If you’ve followed my instructions & not modified by adding or subtracting rows you should be at the same side of the piece as I am. And since we’ve not fastened off at the end of Row 20 We are actually working on Row 21 aka Row 1 of the 1st front panel & beyond.

Right Front Panel We will be attempting to decrease & yet maintain the pattern to form the V-neck shaping of the lapel & the proper opening for the armhole.

Ø Row 1: ch 1, turn & sc in same space as our ch 1, *(shell) in the next divot, sc on top of the next shell, * repeat across ending with a sc in center DC of the shell at your 1st marker that you placed. Or at least that is where my marker was placed.

Ø
Row 2
: Beg DC, in our turning space, *sc in top of previous shell that was completed in the previous row, (Shell) in the divot, * repeat across ending with a DC in the last sc of the 1st row.

Ø Row 3: ch 1, turn & sc in same space as our ch 1, *(shell) in the next divot, sc on top of the next shell, *repeat across ending with a sc in top of the center DC of the last completed shell of the previous row.

Ø Row 4 & all even rows to Row 10 : Repeat Row 2

Ø Row 5 & all odd rows to row 11: Repeat row3

Ø Beginning our should strap section our piece from the beginning of the armhole to this point should measure about 4”(10.2 cm)

Ø Row 12: Beg ½ shell,* sc, (shell),* repeat this pattern across ending with a ½ shell in the last sc of the previous row, ch 1, turn.

Ø Row 13: SC in turning space, *(shell ) in next divot, sc, * repeat across ending with a sc in top of the last ½ shell of previous row.

Ø Row 14 & all even rows to row 24: Repeat row 12

Ø Row 15 & all odd rows to row 25: Repeat row 13, at the end of Row 25 Fasten off, weave end.

Ø Total opening or length of armhole should be 8” (20.3 cm)

Back Section

Ø Join yarn as I’ve instructed you to when joining yarns see special notes as a reminder at the 2nd PM, It should be in a center of a shell as well, if not adjust so that you have a 2”(5.1 cm) space between the beginning point of the front panel & the beginning point of the back panel.

Ø Row 1: sc in this joining spot as the special note instructs, *(shell) in the next divot, sc, * repeat across to your 3rd PM,ending with a sc in the center DC of the previous shell made.

Ø Row 2: Beg DC, sc in center of last shell made, *(shell) in the divot, sc, repeat across ending with a DC in the beginning sc of the previous row.

Ø Row 3: sc in the same space as the turning ch, *(shell) in the divot, sc, * repeat back across the back section to the other end, ending this time with a sc in the last full shell worked.

Ø Row 4 to row 11 will be worked like our 1st front panel.

Ø Row 12 & beyond will be worked like our 1st front panel as well. Once again fasten off. Weave to hide the end.

Left Front Panel

Ø Row 1: Join yarn at the 4th & final marker placed. Once again you should be joining with a sc in a center DC of the previous rows shell, *(shell) in the next divot, sc, repeat to the end of the section ending with a sc in the last DC of the previous rows ½ shell, ch 1 turn.

Ø Row 2: BegDC, in turning ch space, sc in top of next completed shell, *(shell) in the next divot, sc, * repeat across ending with a DC in the last sc of the 1st row worked for this section, ch 1, turn

Ø Row 3: SC in top of the turning point, *(Shell) in the next divot, sc, * repeat to the other end, ending with a sc in top of the last full shell created of the previous row, ch 1 turn.

Ø Row 4: BegDC, in the turning point, sc in top of the next full shell completed in previous row, *(shell) in the next divot, sc, repeat across ending with a DC in the last sc of the previous row, ch 1 turn

Ø Row 5 & every odd row to row 11: work in the same fashion as we did for the right front panel.

Ø Row 6 & every even row to row 10: work in the same fashion as we did for the right front panel.

Ø Row 12: Beg ½ shell, sc, *shell, sc, * repeat across ending with a ½ shell in the last sc of the previous row worked.

Ø Row 13: Sc in turning point, *(shell) in next divot, sc, * repeat across ending with a sc in the last DC of the Beg ½ shell of previous row

Ø Row 14 & beyond: work as we did for the right front shoulder strap section with the exception that we won’t be fastening off this time.

Using a sl st working the two shoulder straps together through the FLO or would it be the back loop I’ve never really understood those descriptions, so I used the two loops of the two pieced closest to each other, if that makes them the back loops than use them, I’ve always considered them the front loops, working through both shoulders toward the armhole sl st in each st through the two closest loops together to form our seam, now ch1, sc in seam, sc around the armhole opening placing 2 sc in each dc that you come across as you work down one side & up the next, placing on sc along the 2”(5.1 cm) space that we have our Markers yes you may remove your markers we are finally done with this set. Fasten off & weave in end

Now you will need to Join your Yarn at the neckline section of both of your other shoulder straps & work in the same fashion as you just did for this strap & armhole opening. Once again remove your markers as you don’t need them anymore, fasten off & weave in your end.

Now join your yarn at the 1st row of your Fancy Fringe on the right hand corner of your garment, sc up the right side, placing extra sc as needed to form a pretty edge, continue up & across our decreased edge to make it just as pretty smooth surface, to our shoulder seam, to the back section , to our other shoulder seam, back down the left front panels decreased section & final ending at the lower edge of the left front panel at the last sc of the 1st row of the fancy fringe , Fasten off & weave in your end to hide.

Advertisements

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s