So Sorry for not being……

I’m so sorry for not being here more often or checking in on my email as often.  However you may forgive me for my delinquency after you read why.

I’ve been experiencing technical difficulties with my health, is the politest way I can say that I’m having multiple mini strokes on a daily basis & sometimes hourly basis.  So not as mini or minor as I want them to be but according to the last neurologist that I saw in February, I actually have experienced these for over 20+ yrs to his best guess.  So that means all the times I couldn’t remember things while I was an active & overworked pion in the big pool of the work force.  I didn’t receive promotions because I was a disabled mess & didn’t know it.  I finally had to put a stop to working on November 20 2000 for a different medical issue but I was having this issue at the same time I just didn’t realize it because the doctors were to busy trying other tests to figure out what I was explaining as quick short jabs of pain as possible sleep deprivation, or migraine issues, or, or, or, but I finally found by the grace of God a neurologist that understood what I was explaining & told me that he actually saw what I was trying to explain.  I took a visual aide with me this time.  A styrofoam head & my knitting needles to explain the spikes as I called them.  And they hit for no known reason & without warning.  And more & more frequently.

For all that Seek….

This is for all the lonely, wounded spirits.  For all the Lost souls searching for truth, for all the misguided and tortured souls that long for a peace of mind.  For those wanting answers to questions asked but not answered or answered but misguided or mislead or misinformed.

Our Society has been seeking these answers since the beginning of time itself.  And when our innocent child of a being that we are all born as asks …..Why does the Sun shine so bright?  Why does the rain come?  Why do the leaves shimmer when the wind blows?  Why…….?  Our parents/elders that we’ve been blessed with try their best to answer these questions & many more with their limited sometimes misguided knowledge.  And some of us are unfortunate to have not so nurturing parents/elders as they themselves are doing what they’ve been taught from their parents/elders that weren’t as loving or knowledgeable.  They pass the abuse, misguided information & patterns on for that is all they know.  They’ve not stopped to seek any other way.  They are trapped in the years & generations of  unforgiving souls.  They live bound to this torment for they weren’t shown anything else.

Our society/world has been misguided often enough that it is now Lost.  But all is not lost for there is a small fragment of Hope that remain faithfully filled with the Truth.  We as that small fragment of hope need to continue to show to the rest of the world that even in our darkest hours, days, months, or years we still can rejoice without the artificial means of coaxing the happiness that most find with the vices of this world. 

Each of us were born innocent.  No matter the color of your skin.  No matter the shape of your eyes, color or style of hair.  We are all born innocent.  We all need to learn how things are done.  We all must learn how to walk, talk, eat, cook, clean, etc.

Same holds true with our imagination it needs to be nurtured.  So that we might be able to comprehend the unseen, such as God and Satan.  We are taught that there is a heaven and that there is a Hell. and some are even taught that there is a place of in between status known as Purgatory.  Many have tried to explain these concepts and failed.  Others have chosen to believe that all of it is made up and that Man is capable of doing all things without God’s Help.  And that is how society go so messed up to begin with, because enough people over time have been misguided.

Yes, our world has several Religious orders, all of which have some knowledge.  Some are slightly misguided, while others are fully properly guiding those that are believers.  We true believers of God, who know what He has done for us.  Those of us that were just as lost & misguided as our parents/elders were before us.  Those of us that have sought out Truth, and have broken the chains of darkness that held us trapped & bound for hell.  We are the ones that go shouting into the wilderness as John the Baptist had done.  Be not afraid my sons, daughters, brothers, sisters –in Christ to share your testimonies of being saved.  For your glimmer of Light of truth may help heal our world one day.

Yes, there is a Heaven and there is a hell.  And we are currently living in Purgatory whether you ant to accept that or not is up to each of you.  I know where I will go when I die do you?  I know that I was once lost and trapped & headed for hell.  I know that I was misguided in the religion that I was being raised with by my parents/elders.  I know that the relationship I have today is not the same as the religion I was raised into believing.  I practiced a religion of worshipping idols but being told that I wasn’t worshipping idols I was just merely praying to an image of a Saint that could help me.  No, you foolish religious idol worshippers, you are being misguided and mislead to believe something that is not true.  You pray to Saints that have no power, a virgin that gave birth to our savior, but not to the one that can actually do anything for us directly.  We need to accept that God chose to come down to us in our own form known to us & crucified by us as Jesus Christ.  He was our precious gift given to us to save us.  He came so that all may be cleansed by his blood that he gave so freely & willingly on that cross.  Yes, we count that days, months, years since his birth.  Whether you want to believe it or not our calendar was created & we started counting the years A.D. since his birth even you Atheists have been counting time since his birth.

You see I walk with Him and talk with Him every day of my life since I was freed from my slavery of being held captive to society.  I used to numb myself to get through life.  I stumbled through life without a relationship with the one true person that could forgive me for all of my transgressions.  I’m talking to all of us who walked full of shame, blame and couldn’t make it through a day without a dose of the artificial means of happiness that we received by boozing or drugging.  Who now walk without fear.  Stand up and Shout “Praise the Lord”  for you know that HE is and was the answer to gaining your happiness without the artificial dose of alcohol or drug of choice to numb your brain to your pain of life.

God our heavenly Father, creator of all living and none living things is the One responsible for your True Happiness.  That our innocent child that was inspired to seek truth and answers.  he created us like little sponges.  He gave us a mind to ask Why?  Well some of us fell short of keeping HIM in our hearts and minds and so we taught our children wrong.  We misguided them, for generations after generation of these wrong teachings has lead us further away from where we all came.  Back in the very beginning of time and space when all there was to our human race the original two.  All of our religions state that there were these original two individuals.  Given the same set of rules that guided us through the centuries.  Some better than others have come & gone.  But the same 1st question still exists to Believe or NOT!

God didn’t want us to be cookie cutter society of automatons, HE gave us this ability so we may choose for ourselves to either Believe and continue to have eternal and internal happiness with HIM without the aid of artificial means or to NOT believe and rely on the artificial means for gaining our happiness.

I know the pit of darkness that I was taught by society in my life experiences that I was trapped in because I believed what I was told by some that thought they were teaching me correctly but they too are trapped in their own pits of purgatory.  For they didn’t seek out the TRUTH.  I know the lies that held me in my pit of darkness.  I know the Truth that got me out of that same pit.  I asked myself when?  When was I truly the happiest in my life?  And so I dug around inside my pit and sorted and stored this debris from this trauma and that trauma and stacked my boxes.  And sorted through more debris of more traumas and stacked yet more boxes.  And I continued to do this to sort, stack & shovel my way through all the debris until I found where I was truly the happiest in my life.  And that was where I found my innocent little child the one before all the pain, shame and blame.  The one that loved to laugh and giggle and dance in the rain.  The innocent child that we all were once in our life and all can be again if we are willing to go seeking through our pits of darkness.

For some the road to discovering this innocent child won’t be long or very difficult to find.  For others it means years of turning back the layers upon layers of each generation of half truths and looking down deep to see & finally find that lost innocent child that was left so long ago.  Because they were taught to accept the lies of there is NO God.

And for these that are so lost that really have no concept of what life could be like if there really was or is a God!  Just look around & find someone that seems to be beaming with an inner light.  You’ll know them they are the ones that you’ve avoided contact with and called a freak because they didn’t think the same way you did.  They are the ones that thought outside of the box.  The ones that saw good no matter how bad things looked or got.  They were the positive thinkers.  The ones that could be happy even without a glass of beer, wine or any alcoholic spirit.  They are the ones that even when life was giving them a cold shoulder from you, would look at you and smile and quietly to themselves say a prayer on your behalf to their heavenly father to forgive you.  Seek these people out these that seem to be different than everything that you’ve been taught.  For they may be able to shed some of their Love light upon you and allow you to finally begin to see HOPE.

God so loved this world that HE created that He gave it us to enjoy not to destroy.  But alas most of us avoided acknowledging HIM and thus our world has become tormented.  God so loves this world that HE gave us Hope in the for of our Savior His Son.  And once again only some of us accepted this gift and most ignored or shunned it and thus our world fell further into it’s pit of darkness.

God still loves this world. So he’s given us yet another opportunity to be reunited with HIM by having those of us that lived without HIM and now dwell with HIM to share our knowledge with the rest of the world so that All may know HIM.

I’m but one voice.  I’m not highly intelligent.  I’m just a voice in your darkness.  I’m a fellow traveler that climbed out of her pit with the Help of God.  He gave me the strength to continue to sort, and box and stack.  He gave me the hope to finding my innocent child.  He provided for me when I couldn’t or didn’t think I could look anymore.  He gave me the courage to pursue the truth.  To keep digging and dumping all the hurts.  He gave me the strength each day to avoid falling backwards.  When I didn’t want to go forward through anymore of debris of half truths that I was taught.  He gave me the strength when I was weak and wanted to dose my shame away.  He gave me the ability to accept my past failures and look toward my future with HIM.  I was afraid for it meant turning my back on what I was taught to be right only to discover that it was only a part truth.  And for that part that was correct he had me hold onto that information and gave me the strength to let go of the wrong information.  Allowed me to overwrite and backup the new correct doctrines with proper passages from enlightened elders.

So many of the world today have resisted the truth, or twisted it to resemble something they are willing to accept that they wander lost without realizing that they are lost.  Doomed to walk eternity in despair and loneliness.  Doomed to eternal Damnation.  It would be so easy for the world if we would stop rejecting or shifting or bending the truth.  So many ask how can we have world peace but none are willing to accept that the only way to have complete world peace is as easy as just accepting there is ONLY one TRUE GOD, Lord master creator of All.

He has good & evil in His control.  He keeps our world in perfect balance by increasing & decreasing the numbers of species.  By having super skinny balance the Obese.  Super tall being balanced by super short.  With all his wisdom he allowed us to choose to either Believe or NOT believe.  Unfortunately, like all loving parents their fondest wish is for their children to LOVE, HONOR and Respect them, to accept them.  Obey without guilt. And for those that chose to not obey they suffer consequences until they are willing to seek out the Truth.

Ski Patrol Hat II

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#3 or #4 category yarns may be used to create this item. Crochet hooks to accommodate the gauge: 3 sc x 1” & 4 rows x 1”.

Stitches used: Chain, sc, dc, & hdc.

I prefer foundational stitches verses chain & stitches per my poor eyesight.

But I’ve also created my own form of beginning stitches that cancel out the use of beginning ch stitch to count as a stitch when it doesn’t appear the same. So please bear with me as I attempt to explain them. If you prefer to use the traditional stitches that you are most familiar with you may. I prefer my versions because I’ve grown accustom to them, I’ve used them all my life of crocheting.

Beginning SC: Turn your work when working in rows, then insert the hook again in the same 1st space below the current loop on the hook, draw up a 2nd loop, yo, finish off the stitch. Beginning sc created.

Beginning DC: Stack 2 sc one on top of the other. Please refer to the beginning sc above for the beginning of this stitch, then insert your hook again between the stitch just made, draw up another loop, yo, draw through both loops on hook, Beginning DC completed. It appears & blends much better than a chain 3 ever thought of being concealed.

Beginning HDC: Draw up the Loop on the Hook to ½”, insert hook, yo, draw up 2nd loop to ½”, yo, draw through both loops on hook, Beginning HDC completed.








Circumference of Hat







Length of Nose guard/Ribbing

4” – 6”

4”- 6”

6”- 8”

6”- 8”-10”



# of stitches

12 or 18

12 or 18

18 or 24

18, 24 or 30

24 or 30

24 or 30

# of rows







Ribbing section:

Foundation sc # of stitches for the hat sized you desire to create, turn. Working in the Back loop only now work sc in each stitch across, turn. Repeat as many times as required for your sized hat. To form the seam we will use a sl st through the back loop of the last row & the front loop of the 1st rows created; Thus forming a perfect seamless appearance to the main body nose guard portion of the hat.

Crown section & eye opening:

Now we will work sc evenly spaced around the end of each row of the ribbing section. So you will now have 48 (56, 64, 72, 80 or 88) sc depending on the size hat you’ve chosen to create. Once you’ve reached the beginning & sl st to join you will now begin working temporarily in rows.

Eye opening

2” – 2 ½ “


3”- 3 ½”

3”, 3 ½” or 4”

3” – 4”

3” – 4”

# of stitches

6 – 8

6 – 9


9, 11, or 12

9, 11 or 12

9, 11 or 12

# of HDC

42 or 40

50, 48 or 47

55, 54, or 53

63, 61, 60

71, 69 or 68

79, 77 or 76

Eye Opening:

Now depending on your hat size & person that you’re creating for is will depend on the size opening needed, for those that wear glasses you will need the opening to be larger than for someone that doesn’t wear glasses.

BegHDC in joining stitch, hdc around each stitch until you’re within the # of stitches per chart above. Remember use the larger # of skipped stitches to accommodate glasses. So if you are leaving an opening for 2 inches leave the last 6 stitches unworked, etc. for each size opening accordingly. Turn, Beg HDC in last HDC, hdc around in each of the previous stitches. Now once you’ve reached the beginning HDC of the previous row you will work either a chain for the skipped stitches if you prefer to work with the traditional stitches or you will work fsc for the same # of skipped stitches. If you chose to work the traditional manner the next round will be worked with all HDC until you’ve reached your chain then you will need to work it with dc, for those of us that are working with foundational sc, our next round will be worked with all hdc for the full round. You will have the same # of stitches as you had for your 1st round of this section depending on the size you’ve chosen to create.

Crown Section:

The child size hats need to be worked slightly different from the Teen/adult sized hats.

If you’ve used only 56 HDC you will decrease 1 st every 8 to make this next round only 48hdc. Then work the next round even. Decrease again by 8 stitches evenly spaced you will have 40 stitches, work your next round evenly again. Decrease again by another 8 stitches 32, the next round another 8 stitches 24 & finally another 8 stitches to make only 16 stitches. Turn inside out, after you’ve Fastened off, leaving enough yarn to weave through the top of each stitch to pull snuggly the opening to become solid.

Now for an adult sized hat 88, decrease by 8, 80, decrease 8 stitches every round until you’ve come to only have 16 stitches remaining. Once we’ve decreased the adult hat to the 56 stitch mark we will need to follow the directions for the child size to make our crowns fit properly.

Unisex V-Neck Sweater Vests

Gentle Giant  and stout dwarf vnecks

I created this pattern to be worked by gauge & actual measurements not for any one particular size. I have made this twice. Once as a semi sew & once as a completely no sew. The smaller of the two that I made one for myself fits 2XL & the one for my gentle giant of a husband fits 3XL Tall.

Material: Redheart #4 weight Super Saver skeins

Fiber Content:

No-Dye-Lot Solids and Prints & Multis: 100% acrylic

Flecks: 96% Acrylic, 4% Other Fibers

Skein Weight:

No-Dye-Lot Solids: 7 oz (198g), Prints & Multis: 5 oz (141g), Flecks: 5 oz (141g)


No-Dye-Lot Solids: Approx.364 yds (333 m), Prints & Multis: Approx. 244 yds (233m), Flecks: Approx. 260 yds (238m)

Crochet Hook:

I-9 (5.5mm)

Knitting Needles:

US 8 (5mm)

Crochet Gauge:

12sc x 15r = 4in(10cm) on size I9(5.5) hook

Knitting Gauge:

17st x 23r = 4in(10cm) on size US 8(5mm) needles

Care Instructions:

Machine wash warm; tumble dry; do not bleach; do not iron; dry cleanable

I used approx. 16 oz of Coffee (MC) & 14 oz. Buff (CC) for each of the Vests

Needle sizes: 10 & 10 ½ circular needles length appropriate for your girth that you are trying to fit. I used 29” one of each for the no sew & for the semi sew version I used a mixed set of Needles as that is the set I inherited it happened to be 1- 10 & 1- 10 ½ sized pair 36” long. I use what I have on hand as I’m on a very tight income.

Since I was still a semi new comer to the knitting world, I’ve only been knitting about 4 years now; I opted to use the Double Cast on method. That way you have a more unified stitch for the beginner in you. The Pattern is written for the 2XL on the Circular Needles 1st with the Straight Needles pattern written in parentheses & Bold. With a few exceptions the Cast on Round or Row it is set up for both sizes as will The Armhole Round (row), which also converts to a semi circular round so that we may work our piece into two pieces only to join again at the shoulder seam.

Stitch Pattern: Mock Hound’s-tooth I think that is what it was called.

With MC CO 172 – 2XL (180- 3 XL) for the no sew I split them between the 2 circular needles, so I had 86- 2XL(90 – 3XL) so that I would be able to work a front & a back when it came time to switch at the armholes & beyond section of the pattern & kept track of which one was my 10” & which one was my 10 ½” that way my front could be worked on the 10 ½” one when it was time to work in parts & 86- 2XL (90 – 3XL tall) for the semi sew.

Now work in ribbing on the circular needles, I placed a marker at the beginning or end spot, & I placed another one at the midway spot so that I could work it in one unified piece (k 2, p2) around for 2” – 2 ½” either size depending if you have a short or Long torso respectively. Now for those that opted to use the semi sew you will (k2, p2,) (For the return trip it will be worked ((K, P, K2, P2, to within the last stitches making sure to end with a K) across thus creating a smoother side seam) for your Front piece & for the Back piece making sure that your ends will sew together properly so that you will have an even, & seamless seam of stitches. Since I was creating it to fit our sizes with a newly learned stitch pattern I think that is why I opted to work it as a no sew the 2nd time.

Once you have your Ribbing worked & ready to move to the next Feature working either your Front or Back Panel or your entire sweater vest. It will be done with a Mock Hound’s-tooth stitch, at least if my memory serves me correctly, I made these over 2 yrs ago & with my medical condition I don’t always remember what things are called But I do remember how I did them, since I had a tendency when I was first realizing that my memory was failing to write my patterns as I went & all even rows or wrong side rows will be worked (k, Purl across to within the last stitch, ending with a final K) turn & begin again. The instructions are the same for either size the difference is the # of stitches that you must work. I prefer the NO Sew that way my pieces of Front & back actually matched the proper Stitching & I didn’t have to worry about keeping track of MC or CC to start my sides with since it was one continuous piece.

For those of us going the NO Sew path which I prefer we will work in knit stitch only, for those that are working with the straight needles follow the directions typed in bold.

Ø Round (Row) 1: Sl 1, K2, Sl 1, K2, around in MC or across if on the Straight needles this is to change from our ribbing to our new pattern stitch.

Ø Round (Row) 2: K around in MC & (K, Purl across to within the last stitch then K) turn.

Ø Round (Row) 3: Join CC, K2, Sl 1 MC, K2 CC, Sl 1MC, repeat around or across

Ø Round (Row) 4: K around using only your CC, or (k, Purl across to within the last stitch than K) turn.

Ø Round (Row) 5: Sl 1 CC, K2 MC, Sl 1 CC, k2MC, around or across depending

Ø Round (Row) 6: K around using only the MC, or (k, Purl across to within the last stitch than K) turn.

Ø Round (Row) 7: K2 CC, Sl 1 MC, K2 CC, Sl 1MC, repeat around or across depending

Ø Round (Row) 8: K around using only your CC, or (k, Purl across to within the last stitch than K) turn.

Ø We now continue in this established pattern of stitches Until Round(Row) 69, Armhole openings staying in pattern

Ø Round (row) 70: For those of us that have been working on the 2 circular Needles it is now time to decide which is your front & which is the back, Remember that whichever section has the 10” circular needle is the back & the 10 ½” circular will be your front that way it will provide the proper easements that are required for your chest & girth at the belly sections. We may now remove our 1st marker & Bind off 12 stitches staying in pattern, k across still in pattern the next 74- 2XL (78- 3XL), Now you should be able to work your remaining stitches from your 2nd marker as follows Bind off 12 Stitches thus creating the 2nd armhole opening, staying in established pattern k across your remaining 74-2XL (78-3XL) & yes you no longer at this time need your marker left.

Ø Work your Back panel 74- 2XL (78- 3XL) stitches evenly alternating between Knit rows for the right side of work & purl rows for wrong side of work & remember that we work 2 rows in MC & than 2 Rows in our CC for approx. 10”(25.4 cm) armhole opening. Do NOT Bind off we will use a 3 needle bind off method for joining our shoulder seams.

Ø Work your Front panel even on the arm hole opening side, but at the center you will be decreasing & staying in pattern to best of your ability one side then the other, You will work your left panel from armhole to center & the right panel from center to armhole as follows: Remember to stay in pattern so k, until within the last 2 stitches of our left panel then; k2together for your decrease at the center, turn, K, p35- 2 xl (p 38- 3 xl), k) stitches still staying in pattern we will purl evenly across to armhole. Repeat in this manner staying within the color scheme & pattern already established from waist to armhole opening, until you have 6”(15.2 cm) width for shoulder to neck opening, then work across these stitches evenly until your piece from beginning of armhole opening to top of shoulder at neckline measures approx. 10”(25.4 cm) in length. Do NOT bind off but retain on needle when possible for the 3 needle bind off & shoulder seaming. Repeat the established pattern for your right side only we begin at the center with our (k2tog, k across the stitches retaining the pattern established to the armhole opening & then we purl back to the center evenly upon the remaining stitches, Repeat in this manner staying within the color scheme & pattern already established from waist to armhole opening, until you have 6”(15.2 cm) width for shoulder to neck opening, then work across these stitches evenly until your piece from beginning of armhole opening to top of shoulder at neckline measures approx. 10”(25.4 cm) in length. Do NOT bind off but retain on needle when possible for the 3 needle bind off & shoulder seaming.

Ø Once we’ve reached our desired armhole opening length we will need to turn our wrong side out & hold our front panel at the armhole opening together to our back panel & use a 3 needle bind off to join across the 6” width of shoulder, then we will also bind off the neckline of unused stitches until we reach our other shoulder at the neckline to the armhole opening while binding together. Cut Yarn leaving enough to sew unfortunately every one no matter if you chose to do the Little/ No sew pattern or the All sew pattern method. Have to sew their decorative edging onto the neckline & armholes.

Ø Back Panel: Bind off 6, staying in pattern, (k, p72 (76), across k, then bind off your last 6 stitches, work evenly until the armhole opening is approx. 10“(25.4 cm) in length, Do not bind off until working the front to the back panels leave on needle when possible & if not slip to stitch holder until ready for completing the vest, cut yarn leaving enough to use for a 3 Needle Bind off method to form a nearly invisible seam.

Ø Front Panel: Bind off 6, staying in pattern, (k, p35- 2 xl (p 38- 3 xl), k) slip these 37- 2 xl (40 – 3xl) stitches to a stitch holder to be worked after you have completed your other front side, (k, p 35(38), k) then bind off your last 6, cut yarn leaving enough to use to sew together later. See Direction above for those that have been working in the rounds. For Pattern instructions

For those that have opted to create the full sew pattern you will need to sew along the side seam from waistline to armhole opening; Since you’ve already used your 3 needle bind off method to join your shoulders to your back panel.

Ø Decorative trim for the neckline & armhole opening are worked in your MC & in a ribbing of K2, P2, If you prefer as little sewing as possible you may use your circular needle #10 to pick up evenly spaced stitches around the entire armhole opening & carefully, create your trim of approx. 1 ½” in width. For those that prefer to work the ribbing & then sew it to your work you may do so as well. You will need 1- 34”- 36” (86.4 – 91.4 cm) for the Neckline; & 2- 26”-28” (66 – 71.1 cm) edgings 1 for each armhole opening. I opted to the sew method for my 1st vest & opted the Pick & go method for my 2nd vest. I started the neckline at the center & picked up from front right up to shoulder across the neck opening to left shoulder, down the left neck opening, I used a k2tog at the center front to keep the work smooth. Now for the armholes I started at the lower center & picked up along the bottom edge, increase 2 at the side corners to make it a more smooth transaction to become a more circular opening than the square that I created, up the armhole to the shoulder seam, & back down the other side to the center of the armhole opening at the base.

Now if you’ve opted to create your trim separately as I did for the smaller sweater vest, you will need to create a length of trim 1- 34”- 36” (86.4 – 91.4 cm) for neckline & 2- 26” – 28” (66 – 71.1 cm) for the armhole openings We will begin in the same fashion as the no sew method, we attach the neckline at the bottom center on the right side of work & sew into place the edge to the left front panel at the v junction, across & up the right side panel across the length of the trim, up to the neckline of the back panel, around & down the left front panel ending with the left edge overlapping slightly the right front edging & fasten the side of the edge to the right front.

Now on the armhole openings trim I opted to join the two ends together before I sewed it to the vest, & I started joining the trim at the bottom center & work the piece evenly around the entire armhole.

One Size fits all Pant


USA, Canadian and DUTCH

UK and Australian

Chain – ch


Slip Stitch – sl st

Single Crochet

Single Crochet – sc

Double Crochet

Half-Double Crochet – hdc

Half Treble Crochet

Front Post Treble/Triple Crochet – fptc

Front Post Double Treble Crochet



Yarn Over -yo

Yarn On/Over Hook


That’s assuming that all are right-handed.

These are the basic old fashioned beginning of your next row/rounds. I’ve modernized or created stitches to replace them that worked more effectively & maintained the patterns more evenly for me. You will come across these in the patterns. These make it easier to keep straight edges & find the beginning of the row/round more easily too. They also help when you have chained spaces following directly after your turning/joining stitch. I also use the Foundation stitches which create the chain & stitch all at the same time.

Beginning Single Crochet (BegSC): Turn your work if you’re working in row format without making the chain 1, insert your hook directly into the stitch below your hook, draw up a loop, yo(yarn Over) draw through both loops. BegSC made. If you’re working in rounds, you will merely, insert your hook into the joining stitch, draw up a loop, yo, draw through both loops, & proceed to your next stitch. Looks just like all of your other sc’s within your pattern.

Beginning Half-Double Crochet (BegHDC): Turn your work if you’re working in row format without making the ch 2, insert your hook directly into the joining stitch, draw up a loop, yo, draw through both loops, ch 1, proceed to the next hdc. If working in rounds as you see you will not be making the ch 2 before proceeding you will yo, insert your hook directly into the joining stitch, draw up a loop, yo, draw through all loops, proceed to the next hdc. Thus creating hdc & appearing just like all other hdc’s within your pattern. Your next hdc will be made in a similar fashion, you will yo, insert your hook in spot indicated, draw up a loop, yo & draw through all loops on the hook. Equals 1 ½ sc stacked.

Material: #3 or #4 category yarn

Crochet hook of your choice: since no 2 individuals are exactly alike with tension, varies Please Consult gauge Chart:! and the current market International size chart can be found:! or! then find the closest match to my size within the chart below.

My sizes












Waist measurement












Infant / Prepubescent child, tween/teen hip measurement












Tween / Teen / Adult Hip measurement












Height to Slacks inseam length – Round up or down to the nearest 1” if you are ½”+ go up to the next 1” if you are less than ½” round off your fraction. Inseam Chart based on approximate height from 2’0” & beyond is dependant on combination of girth & height that is why I’ve tried to simplify the chart, but if you know your inseam use it. My chart is US sizing in Inches, for Length depending on girth aka weight.

0’5.5” – 2’0” increments increase or decrease by ¼”

2’1”-3’0” increments increase or decrease by ¼”

3’1”-4’0” increments increase or decrease by ¼”

4’1”-5’3” females – Petite

4’1” – 5’4” males- stout/portly

increments increase or decrease by ½” – 2”

5’4”- 5’8” females

5’5”- 5’10” males

Average / Regular

5’9” + females

5’11” + males

Tall/ x/tall Long/X-long increments increase or decrease by 3” – 4”

2, 2.25,2.5,2.75



22, 22.5



3, 3.5



23, 23.5



4, 4.5



24, 24.5



5, 5.5



25, 25.5



6, 6.5



26, 26.5



7, 7.5



27, 27.5



8, 8.5



28, 28.5



9, 9.5



29, 29.5



10, 10.25



30, 30.5



10.5, 10.75



31, 31.5



Width of each leg to fit multiple sizes within the size provided above. These measurements take in consideration girth.

My sizes












Waist: Use this if your waist & hips = each other












Hips: Infant/toddler/child

Prepubescent Tween/teen












Hips: Tween/Teen/Adult












Legs (Make 2): Dependent upon length vs. width measurements. Both measurements equal = Square shape, 1 larger than the other = Rectangle shape. The legs are worked length by width, Not width by length.

Don’t fret if you’ve always had to have a tailor or seamstress create or adjust for you because God created each of us individually, I’ve set up my charts so that we can create a perfect fit to our individual needs. Just find the lengths needed for your inseam based on your need & create legs that will work for you. Sorry I’m speculating on several of these sizes based on my research. I’ve designed them to fit for a few sizes at a time. Now once you’ve found your appropriate size in my graphs, you will now create your legs. (Example: The number of rows to achieve your legs width that you are attempting to fit. So a 12”l x 12” w square with a 5sc x 5row gauge will need to work 60 sc for 60 rows.) Now my gauge chart is set up for cm and inches and is rounded to the nearest row or stitch depending. Now let’s say you’re an adult with a 24” waist, you’re only 3’0” tall, if I’ve done my math correctly you will need xx-small with a 15.5” x 15.5” square x 2 = 1 for each leg. If I didn’t do my match correctly I’m sorry but this was my hypothesis, based on my research.

v Foundation Row: BegSC, sc # of stitches needed to achieve your needed length in your gauge. Please consult the linked charts for further assistance. Do NOT ch 1, just turn. As a reminder please see attached special stitches.

v Row 2 + beyond: Continue to work BegSC, followed by the #of stitches to create your needed length.

v Finishing Leg: Fold the square or Rectangle in half so that the beginning row meets the ending row, sl st through back loops only, this will provide slight additional easement if necessary. Once you’ve reached the other end, you will begin working around the leg opening with Sc stitches 1 per each row worked, fasten off & repeat for your 2nd leg. However, on the 2nd leg do not fasten off, we will begin joining our legs together & working them from crotch to waist.

Some of us have one leg longer or shorter depending on how you view the manner in which you were constructed & I’m right-handed so I’ve written my pattern to be worked as if we are all right-handed I know that we are not. So please adjust accordingly for you needs.

From Crotch to Waist chart – (depends on how your torso to leg ratio + your girth)

Average = evenly divided; our Almighty Lord created us individually, so find the best fit for you not based on your age group you can compare your height to the heights within the age groups to determine your best fit.

Age Category/ height category




Preemie Newborn – Infants

(5.5”- 15”) divide total length in ½, subtract the inseam from that

Varies greatly

Varies greatly

Varies greatly

Full term Newborn – Infants

(15” – 30”)




Toddler – Child




Prepubescent Tween/Teen








With our Preemies their sizes vary drastically from a super micro to just barely newborn in length. So their tiny little waist sizes & crotch measurements vary just as drastically.

Crotch to Waist: Joining the Legs to the Waist (I’ve written for right-handed as that is what I am. Make your adjustments accordingly. Just as if you have one leg longer or shorter than the other will determine which one you will start with.) The one & only seam will appear to the rear of us.

v Begin with appropriate leg to be on the right of your body in hand with the buttocks facing you, BegHDC, foundation hdc, insert hook into the same stitch & the seam stitch of the other leg & work a hdc this will be our crotch increase & joining of the two legs, hdc in the seam stitch, hdc in each stitch around that leg to the crotch stitches just formed, work evenly in the 2 stitches, hdc around the leg to the BegHDC, sl st to join. (# of stitches = to your waist/hip dimension + 4 crotch stitches. (Ex: 124hdc))

v BegSC, sc evenly around total # of stitches. SL st to join. (ex. = 124sc)

v BegSC, sc, (hdc2tog), sc evenly around to the other side of the crotch, work another (hdc2tog) sc around to the BegSC, SL st to join. (120sc,2hdc)

v BegHDC, (hdc2tog), hdc around to the remaining crotch stitches (hdc2tog), hdc to BegHDC, sl st to join. (120 hdc)

v BegSC, sc evenly around, sl st to join. (120 sc)

v Continue to work evenly until your desired distance from crotch to waist line is achieved. In the following sequence of rounds. Next round: HDC, Next 2 rounds: sc, next round: hdc, next round: sc; repeat these 5 rounds until your desired length is reached. To create our drawstring space, we will work 1 additional round alternating between sc & fptc will be worked around the stitch 2 rounds below, sl st to join & fasten off, hide ends. The draw string is created by ch 12, work 2 sc in each ch to beginning, ch a length + 10” for around your waist, ch 12, work 2 sc in each of the final stitches, than sl st back to the 1st curly q end. Fasten off & weave through the belt loops at the waist. (Ex: if you have a 24” waist you will make the curly q end, ch a length of ch 34” in length than add the last 12 ch to create your other curly q tip, and sl st back to your 1st curly q tip & fasten off.)

Semi-Granny Slip-on’s

DSCI0017  DSCI0018

Pattern written: Sorry I’ve just created this pair & haven’t tried any other size yet since this is my size.

Ladies: S/M US: 6/8 UK: 3 ½ – 5 ½ Continental: 36-38 ½ Japanese: 22 ½ – 24 ½

Material: 2 Fashionable Buttons Sorry I Just took buttons out of my bucket of buttons & tried to see which ones would work through the button holes that I made. I’m not a professional.

Crochet Hook “h”,”5 mm”, “8” or “6” in the UK

Yarn: Sorry I’m not sure about the amount needed but I’m sure you can do this with your scrap yarn no more than 1 ½ oz I suppose. I’m not a professional by any means.

Sorry I didn’t measure my gauge but they should measure between 7” unstretched (17.8 cm) – 9” (22.9 cm) when slightly stretched.

Stitches used: (FPT) Front Post Treble in the USA sorry I’m not familiar enough with the UK stitches to know what to call it as you can see I pulled a chart from the internet to attach so that others will be able to follow & convert the stitches accordingly to the UK at least.

Abbreviations USA

Abbreviations UK

chain (ch)

chain (ch)

single crochet (sc)

double crochet (dc)

half double crochet (hdc)

half treble (htr)

double crochet (dc)

treble (tr)

treble (tr)

double treble (dtr)

double treble (dtr)

triple treble (tr tr)

slip stitch (sl st)

slip stitch (sl

Body, Sole & Beyond the Semi-Granny (Make 2)

v Start with your choice of color & ch 4, place 2 more DC in 4th ch from hook, ch 2, place 3 DC in same 4th ch from hook, ch 2, place another 3 DC in the same space as before, ch 2, add another 3 DC in the center of this soon to be closed beginning of a Granny with a HDC in the 1st ch of the ch 3 of the 1st DC in this grouping & finish it creating a new starting position in the last DC of the last set of 3 DC.

v (Beg DC + 2 DC, ch 2, 3 DC) all within the beginning position, ch 1, (3 DC, ch 2, 3 DC) in the next ch 2 space, ch 1, (3 DC, ch 2, 3 DC) in the next ch 2 space, ch 1, (3 DC, ch 2, 3 DC) in the next ch 2 space, ch 1 & sl st to beg DC of this round. Another new starting point created.

v Beg DC in this ch 1 space, DC in the next 3 DC, 2 DC in the ch 2 space, create from this point an additional Foundational Chain of 32 DC + a joining Foundational DC into the next ch 2 space on the opposite corner, 2 DC in this space, DC in each DC & ch 1(7 DC), 4 DC in next Ch 2 space, Dc in each DC & ch 1 space(7 DC), 4 DC in next ch 2 space, DC in each DC & ch 1 space ending with a sl stitch to the top of the beg DC for this round.(65 DC)

v Sc in each DC evenly around ending with a sl st into the 1st sc of this round.(65 sc)

v DC in each SC of previous round ending with a sl st into the beginning DC for this round (65 DC)

v Sc in front loop only of the previous DC for this round evenly around ( 65 sc)

v Working in back loop of previous two rounds to begin forming the sole, sc in the next 12 spaces, dec 1, sc in the next 5 spaces, dec 1, sc in the next 22 spaces, dec 1, sc in the next 9 spaces, dec 1, sc in the last 10 spaces ending with a sl st through both loops of the beginning sc of this round.

v Working in both loops once again for the remainder of the rounds, sc in the 1st 12 sc of previous round, dec 1, sc in next 3 sc, dec 1, sc in next 22 sc, dec 1, sc in next 7 sc, dec 1, sc in last 10 sc ending with a sl st in beginning sc for this round.

v HDC in 1st 12 sc, dec 1, hdc, dec 1, hdc in the next 22 sc, dec 1, hdc in the next 5 sc, dec 1, sc in the last 10 sc, ending with a sl st to the beginning hdc for this round.

v Hdc in the 1st 12 hdc, dec1, dec 1, hdc in the next 22 hdc, dec 1, hdc in the next 3, dec 1, hdc in the last 10 ending with a sl st & fasten off. Now turn slip on inside out & in ½ to sl st the seam together starting at either end & working in the outer loops of both sides, sl st to the other end, fasten off & hide small tail by weaving.

v Topper Section is worked in Rows- Rejoin your yarn on either side of the ankle depending on which slip on you want to make first since they can be buttoned & unbuttoned if you prefer. Working in the Back loops only for the 1st row. You should have a total of 33 Sc for this row.

v Beg hdc, hdc in next 2, T crochet to the front loop of the 1st rows DC , Hdc in next 3, T in front loop of the 1st rows DC, Hdc in next 3, T in the front loop of the 1st rows DC, hdc in next 3, T in front loop of the 1st rows DC (at the base of the 17th stitch), hdc, T in the front loop of the 1st rows DC(at the base of the previous 17th stitch), hdc in the next 3, T in the front loop of the 1st rows DC, hdc in next 3, T in the front loop of the 1st rows DC, hdc in next 3, T in the front loop of the 1st rows DC, hdc in next 3 ( you will have a total of 8 T in this round)

v Sc evenly across this row (33 sc)

v Beg hdc, hdc in next 2, FPT around previous T, Hdc in next 3, FPT around previous T, Hdc in next 3, FPT around previous T, hdc in next 3, FPT around previous T, hdc, FPT around previous T, hdc in the next 3, FPT around previous T, hdc in next 3, FPT around previous T, hdc in next 3, FPT around previous T, hdc in next 3 ( you will have a total of 8 T in this round)

v Sc evenly across this row (33 sc)

v Beg hdc, hdc in next 2, FPT around previous T, Hdc in next 3, FPT around previous T, Hdc in next 3, FPT around previous T, hdc in next 3, FPT around previous T, hdc, FPT around previous T, hdc in the next 3, FPT around previous T, hdc in next 3, FPT around previous T, hdc in next 3, FPT around previous T, hdc in next 3 ( you will have a total of 8 T in this round)

v Sc evenly across ending with a ch 4, sl st into the base of the top of the hdc of previous row, sl st down the side of this cuff to base of the row, sc in 1st space, sc in each DC & Ch 1 space across, ending with another sc in the base of the cuff & sl st to approximately the same position on the cuff from the buttonhole just created to make them fashionable in appearance, fasten off & hide small tail. Now attach the button to the other side of cuff.